Although pizza is often perceived as an inexpensive meal, it was not offered as a menu item during the recently concluded Providence Restaurant Weeks. But with Providence Pizza Week coming up in April, it was the subject of discussion with Christine Phillips, who handles restaurant relations for the Providence Warwick Convention & Visitors Bureau.
Phillips and I reached the conclusion that pizza in Rhode Island could be classified by the style in which it is made.
Pizza takes on many forms these days. Food writers across the country are listing the newest style and the latest craze in the same way that dance steps would have been written about a couple of generations ago.
Once again, there is a long and delicious history in Rhode Island of unique and trendsetting pizza styles that go back decades.
One that is causing somewhat of a buzz these days is the Roman style – the square pizza with a tender crust that is almost focaccia-like in its raised form. It is enjoying a moment these days, being featured by emerging venues such as Neon Marketplace.
Across the country, square is the new round, from standalone mom-and-pop places all the way up to the well-known national chain Little Caesar’s, which was once better known and is mounting a comeback by “rolling” out square Roman-style pies.
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ON THE RUN: Providence Pizza Week will make its return from April 16-23. Pictured is Avvio Ristorante food runner Isabella Dibarros.
PBN PHOTO/BRUCE NEWBURY[/caption]
Rhode Island pizza chefs have been serving up square pizza for years. Like many of our local foods, there may be some discussion of the terminology. Some will call it Sicilian, while others will call it Roman style. However, one is unlikely to hear local square or oblong pizza referred to as Detroit style. Comparisons might be made, as both are baked in steel pans and their feature is risen dough. There are some fine examples of this style from Caserta Pizzeria – if you order the large – to Uncle Tony’s Pizza & Pasta.
Pizza Napoletana is the “latest and greatest” in terms of the number of pizzerias that describe their style in this way. It requires a brick oven fueled by wood or coal. The other styles are cooked in ovens with a gas flame. There are also electric pizza ovens.
Napoletana pizza is actually “policed,” and has been since 1984, by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana. The group’s literature and online material states that it is protecting the cultural history of the traditional Napoli pie, and to ensure anyone trying to cash in on it is taking the necessary steps to replicate the true process. Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana has specific rules about ingredients, procedures, even oven temperature.
Although a number of places in Rhode Island describe their style in this way, including figidini, Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana and Imbriglio’s Pizzeria Napoletana, there are only two listed as members – Pasquale’s Pizzeria Napoletana and Basta. As fans of all these places will attest, the quality is every bit as high as the authenticity, right down to the charred part of the crust.
Want to impress your friends or your pizza chef? First, call the chef the pizzaiolo, or pizzaiola if the chef is a female. Ask how the cornichone is. This means a very specific part of the crust, namely the outer rim. And if you find yourself in a Napoletana-style place, ask if the pizzaiolo would mind if you pinch the crust in the middle, creating what is known as a “libretto” – the Italian word for booklet – or lip, to eat their Napoli pizza.
There is plenty of time to study up before Providence Pizza Week, scheduled for April 16-23.
“Dining Out With Bruce Newbury” is broadcast locally on WADK 101.1 FM and 1540 AM and on WWRI 105.5 FM and 1450 AM. The show is also broadcast on radio stations in Vermont and Indiana. Contact Bruce at bruce@brucenewbury.com.