Seeing the Grand Canyon in winter was on my bucket list. Here's what I learned visiting

Seeing the Grand Canyon was long a dream for me. Moving to Arizona put it in greater reach than before. But my move happened in the summer, too hot and too crowded to fully appreciate this natural wonder spanning 277 miles from end to end.

So, I booked a hotel room in Williams, about 55 miles south of Grand Canyon National Park's main entrance, for early November. My thought was to visit when the weather cooled to fall temperatures and fewer people were likely to pass through the entry gates.

What I didn’t expect was the weather cooling to winter temperatures.

My visit was Nov. 4, the day after a storm dumped about 6 inches of snow on the Flagstaff area south of Grand Canyon. The trees and shrubs as I drove along State Route 64 from Williams to Tusayan were speckled with a coat of snow. For the first few miles, the vehicle in front of me was a snowplow.

Did I mention this was the first time I ever drove on icy streets?

The Grand Canyon is a spectacular sight to behold any time of year, with its vivid orange-red hues and dramatic peaks inspiring awe in the millions of people who visit annually (4.5 million in 2021, according to the National Park Service).

Fewer people visit Grand Canyon during the winter, and those who go can have a rewarding experience Here’s what to expect.

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Yes, it snows at Grand Canyon in winter (and late fall, too)                        

I relocated to Arizona after 20 years in central Florida. My surprise at finding out snow can blanket the Grand Canyon — which park service staff says visitors should prepare for when visiting in January and February — was comparable to the moment my 15-year-old self discovered freezing weather was possible in Florida.

"The South Rim is about 7,000 feet above sea level, so we do see a bit of snow," said Joelle Baird, public affairs specialist for Grand Canyon National Park. "Even in the spring. The months of March (and) April into May, we can have periods of snowfall."

In heavier snowfalls, the canyon can appear to resemble the mountain peaks of an Alpine ski resort town. On my visit I saw a light dusting of snow along the canyon rim, most prominently while navigating the Grandview Point overlook. It was beautiful.

At least, to look at.

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Plan for wind, rain, snow and freezing temperatures when visiting in the winter. A warm coat, hat, gloves and sturdy shoes are musts.

Snowy, icy conditions can create hazards for walkers and hikers, but you can be prepared. The National Park Service recommends wearing foot traction devices — grippy little aids that are easily stretched over your shoes or boots and bite into snow and ice.

I paid the price for not planning for this on my visit. While hiking a paved section of the Rim Trail between Mather Point and Yavapai Point, I slipped on the ice. My hands broke my fall and I wasn’t seriously injured, though I did need someone’s help getting back up.

Baird said some shops in the park, including the Canyon Village Market operated by concessionaire Delaware North, sell foot traction devices and other hiking gear. You can also buy them at sporting goods stores and online; YakTrax and Kahtoola are among the brands. If only I knew before.

Sometimes, cold weather brings fog. In rare cases, the emergence of temperature inversions — when the air near the ground is cooler than the air above it, according to the NASA Earth Observatory — fill the canyon with fog and give the illusion that the canyon is riding on clouds.

More often, fog can obscure a good view of the canyon as well as present driving hazards. Signs at the park entrance will let guests know if it’s too foggy for clear views from the overlooks.

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Grand Canyon is much less crowded in winter

Photos of Grand Canyon overlooks in the summer often show masses of people gathering around, with little room to spread out. But crowds are far smaller in the cooler months, allowing for a more leisurely pace when viewing overlooks, hiking trails like the Bright Angel Trail and driving scenic routes like Desert View Road.

"There's an element of solitude you don't get when you visit in the busy season," Baird said.

It won’t feel totally remote. Tourists still visit in the offseason — one of the shuttle buses I boarded was nearly full — but the pace feels more relaxed. The driver told the passengers that if they thought this was crowded, they should come back during the summer.

The numbers support these observations. Park visitor counts were 280,593 in December 2021, 180,094 in January 2022 and 191,984 in February 2022, according to park service data. That may read like a lot of people, but it’s a far cry from the high season of May through August. Last summer, visitor traffic averaged about 500,000 people each month. (July was the busiest, at 543,760 visitors.)

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What is there to do at Grand Canyon in winter?

Wildlife watchers may notice fewer species roaming the park lands in the winter. But encounters with animals who’ve adapted to the colder weather are possible, according to park service staff.

Winter visitors may see mule deer, elk, California condors, ravens and Abert’s and Kaibab tree squirrels. The deer and elk grow thicker coats to tolerate cold temperatures, while squirrels grow fur tassels on their ears for protection, according to the park service.

I saw a group of elk crossing a street and venturing through the trees during a shuttle ride back to the visitor center after exploring the west end of the park. The thrill of catching a glimpse of traffic-stopping wildlife made me feel like I was in Yellowstone. (Still working on getting there for the first time.)

People who appreciate ranger programs and cultural activities will be pleased to note they're offered in winter.

A nightly ranger program is offered, and cultural demonstrations take place in the Grand Canyon Visitor Center, Baird said. December's demonstrations include a Navajo musician, Navajo weavers and Hopi potters. The park's astronomer in residence, Daniel Fleisch, recently presented a stargazing program at night.

Mule rides are available in winter. Xanterra Travel Collection, which operates hotels and lodges in the park, offers a three-hour ride along the rim that leaves at 10 a.m. Call 303-297-2757 for more information or to book a trip.

What's open at Grand Canyon in winter?

Mather Campground and the Trailer Village RV Campground are open all year. The camper services building near Mather Campground is open for laundry and showers, but the camp store is closed until further notice, according to the park service's website.

The Desert View and North Rim campgrounds are closed for the winter.

The hotels and lodges operated by Xanterra (El Tovar Hotel, Bright Angel Lodge, Thunderbird Lodge, Maswik Lodge and Kachina Lodge) and Delaware North (Yavapai Lodge and Trailer Village RV Park) are open, as are their on-site dining options like El Tovar Dining Room and Yavapai Tavern. The gift shop at Maswik Lodge is closed for renovations.

The visitor center, Grand Canyon Conservancy Park Store, Bright Angel Bicycles and the Hopi House, Lookout Studio and Hermits Rest gift shops are open. Canyon Village Market, which sells groceries, souvenirs and hiking equipment, is open.

The Village Route blue shuttle connecting the visitor center with lodges and campgrounds, the Kaibab Rim orange shuttle connecting the visitor center with South Kaibab Trailhead and many scenic overlooks, and the early morning Hikers' Express Shuttle transporting visitors between Grand Canyon Village and South Kaibab Trailhead, will run during the winter.

The Hermit Road red route, which runs from Hermit Road to Hermits Rest and stops at nine overlooks, is closed for the season and will restart on March 1.

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Tips for Grand Canyon winter visitors

• Plan for cold temperatures, icy trails and short daylight hours. Recommended equipment includes foot traction devices, trekking poles, flashlights and/or headlamps, extra snacks and layered clothing to add or remove as the weather changes.
• Roads in and leading to the park can be snowy, icy or impassable. Make sure your car and tires are prepared for winter travel.
• Follow the Grand Canyon website for updates on weather and road conditions, as well as the Arizona Department of Transportation's AZ511.com for updates on road conditions on the way to the park.
• The North Rim of Grand Canyon and State Route 67 leading to it from Jacob Lake are closed in winter. No services are available at the North Rim until May 15.

Details: Admission is $35 per vehicle, good for seven days. https://www.nps.gov/grca.

Reach the reporter at Michael.Salerno@gannett.com. Follow him on Twitter @salerno_phx.

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