RECIPES

Thanksgiving flavors: Curry and cauliflower, brie and cranberry, apple cider

Carolyn VandeWiele
Guest columnist
A Curried Cauliflower Cheese Phyllo Pie is sure to impress your friends and family at your next festive feast. Inside the classy presentation is satisfying comfort food.

It’s the season for giving thanks — as we enter the 2021 holiday season, filled with special treats and meals, it’s a good time to reflect on what we should be thankful for, including in the kitchen.

So I’m giving thanks for many things that have brought me to where I am today.

I’ll start with my parents, who made me an adventurous eater. At home we ate a lot of different foods and when we traveled we always checked out the local cuisine. Thanks to them there are few things I won’t try at least once, and most of them I’ll try again.

My mother taught me to cook and to set a table properly. As a teenager, I may not have appreciated having to prepare and serve meals for frequent business dinners and parties (not to mention washing the dishes), but as an adult the things I learned have been invaluable. 

Mom taught herself to be a creative cook by working her way through the “Joy of Cooking” and Julia Child’s “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” as a newlywed while living in a very small house in West Haven, Connecticut, where she could stir the gravy while sitting on the end of their bed. As a parent she got up every morning and made us a good breakfast, always had a pot of chicken stock on the stove and probably would have made a good contestant on “Chopped” with her ability to pull disparate ingredients out of the refrigerator and put a delicious meal on the table. 

More holiday recipes:Thanksgiving favorites — with a twist

And speaking of Irma Rombauer (the original author of “Joy of Cooking”) and Child (there’s a new documentary about her in theaters this month), I give thanks to all the chefs and food writers. This week I’m reading “In Pursuit of Flavor” by Edna Lewis with its focus on fresh ingredients and country flavors. The writers have done all the hard work in the kitchen to create and test recipes so I don’t have to. Yes, I might tweak a recipe or make a substitution or two, but they’ve provided me with a reliable foundation on which to build. And they’ve stoked my imagination and introduced me to whole worlds to explore in the confines of my own kitchen.

And then there are the developers of cooking equipment and gadgets — from modern nonstick pots and pans to microplanes, crockpots and food processors. It would be incredibly easy to overcrowd the kitchen with every little gizmo that’s advertised; Alton Brown always preaches against buying devices that can only be used for one purpose, but some things really do make our lives so much easier. This year’s buy was a chain mail scrubber for cleaning cast iron pans without ruining their seasoning. It works amazingly well and then you just throw it in the dishwasher to keep it clean. 

I give thanks to our hometown newspaper, which keeps me informed about the local food scene and is still willing to carry food columns by local writers. As I look over my columns from the past four and a half years, I’m amazed at how my own cooking experience has expanded. … We’ve been eating a lot more creatively since I started.

Seasonal favorites:Recipes feature cranberries, winter squash

And I want to thank my wife, who has been my partner in this endeavor, not only taking most of the wonderful photos that accompany the columns, but also being willing to act as the taste-tester for every dish, including the occasional missteps. She doesn’t like everything I cook but always has a discerning palate and good suggestions.

And I really appreciate my collection of recipes … I’m always saving newspaper clippings and website links for dishes I want to try someday. For this week’s column, I’ve pulled out three to share with you that might fit into your holiday plans. 

Cranberry Brie Bites are dough filled with chunks of brie and a tangy cranberry sauce and topped with chopped pecans and a sprig of fresh rosemary. Here, some were made using the crescent roll dough called for in the recipe, while others are in phyllo shells.

First there’s an appetizer of Cranberry Brie Bites. Mini-muffin tins lined with crescent dough are filled with chunks of brie and a tangy cranberry sauce and topped with chopped pecans and a sprig of fresh rosemary from my herb patch. I used a recipe from an old Thanksgiving column for the cranberry sauce, but reading through the online comments from people who’d tried making this dish, you could use anything from cranberry sauce leftover from Thanksgiving dinner to a purchased “hot” jelly. Puff pastry would also work for this recipe instead of crescent roll dough, and because I had some sheets leftover from our second dish, I also tried making some phyllo shells filled with the same ingredients. They worked nicely — because the phyllo shells are thinner and don’t rise while cooking, you get a more intense taste from the fillings and a bit more of a crunch. And speaking of kitchen gadgets, a pizza cutter, if you have one, works perfectly for cutting your squares.

For the main dish, I made a Curried Cauliflower Cheese Phyllo Pie recipe that I found a few months ago. Cauliflower is filled with nutrients, is low in fiber and low in calories. Here it’s roasted with curry powder and olive oil, combined with a bechamel sauce and cheddar cheese and wrapped in phyllo pastry. You could amp up the flavors with a bit more mustard, some herbs or a dash of cinnamon if you find it a bit mild, but it pairs well with a spicy sausage or other meat dish. If you like cheesy potatoes this would be a good alternative and it makes a classy presentation for a holiday side. 

Apple Cider Doughnut Blondies are a buttery and chewy treat for any holiday gathering or a late-night snack. Enjoy them with a glass of apple cider or top them with a scoop of ice cream.

And for your dessert course, I took some holiday flavors and made Apple Cider Doughnut Blondies. They feature browned butter and apple cider that is reduced to intensify its essence. The blondies were buttery and chewy and you could enjoy them with a glass of apple cider or go that extra mile by topping them with a scoop of vanilla or butter pecan ice cream. 

Earlier column: 'If it's tangy and brown, you're in cider town'

In her forward to Edna Lewis’ cookbook, Mashama Bailey writes, “I never had professional culinary ambitions — I only wanted to learn to cook well enough to keep my family and friends coming back for more.” I reserve my final thanks to everyone who reads this column and to my friends and family who have joined me at the table all these years … even if we’re not always in the same room. Happy holidays, everyone!

Cranberry Brie Bites

Source: by Lauren Miyashiro, Delish, Nov. 15, 2021

1 (8-oz.) tube crescent dough*

Cooking spray, for pan

Flour, for surface

1 (8-oz.) wheel of brie (a wedge will also work)

1/2 cup whole berry cranberry sauce**

1/4 cup chopped pecans

6 sprigs of rosemary, cut into 1" pieces.

1. Preheat oven to 375° and grease a mini muffin tin with cooking spray. On a lightly floured surface, roll out crescent dough, and pinch together seams. Cut into 24 squares. Place squares into muffin tin slots.

2. Cut brie into small pieces and place inside the crescent dough. Top with a spoonful of cranberry sauce, some chopped pecans, and one little sprig of rosemary.

3. Bake until the crescent pastry is golden, about 15 minutes. 

Columnist’s notes

* You could also use phyllo dough or puff pastry dough instead of the crescent roll dough to make these bites. 

** I made these with a Tequila and Lime Jalapeno Cranberry Sauce (see below). Reading through the recipe comments, folks tried everything from cranberry relish to jalapeno jelly, cranberry hot jelly, and honey and candied pecans. Bakers also substituted goat cheese or gorgonzola for the brie and thyme instead of rosemary and were happy with the results.

Tequila and Lime Jalapeno Cranberry Sauce

Source: Closet Cooking

4 cups (one 12-ounce bag) cranberries

1 cup water or orange juice

1 cup sugar

1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and diced

1 tablespoon lime juice

2 tablespoons tequila

1. Bring the cranberries, water, sugar and jalapeno to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until the cranberries burst and the the sauce starts to thicken, about 10-15 minutes.

2. Mix in the lime juice and tequila and remove from heat.

Curried Cauliflower Cheese Phyllo Pie Recipe

Source: "Shelf Love: Recipes to Unlock the Secrets of Your Pantry, Fridge and Freezer," a cookbook by Noor Murad & Yotam Ottolenghi (posted in Thrillist)

1 large cauliflower, trimmed and cut into bite-size florets (1 pound 9 ounces)

2 teaspoons mild curry powder

3 tablespoons olive oil

7 tablespoons unsalted butter, half cut into roughly 1¼-inch cubes and half melted

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons whole milk

2 garlic cloves, minced

1½ tablespoons English mustard

1 ⅓ cups coarsely grated mature cheddar

6-8 sheets of good quality phyllo pastry (we use feuilles de filo)

Salt and black pepper

1 tablespoon roughly chopped parsley, to serve

1½ teaspoons lemon zest, to serve

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Line the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform cake pan with parchment paper.

2. Put the cauliflower on a large, parchment-lined baking sheet and toss with the curry powder, half the oil, ½ teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper. Roast for about 20 minutes, until cooked through and lightly colored. Set aside, and turn the oven temperature down to 375 degrees F.

3. Meanwhile, make the bechamel. Put the cubed butter into a medium saucepan on medium-high heat and, once melted, whisk in the flour and cook for 1-2 minutes — it should start to smell nutty (like popcorn). Turn the heat down to medium and slowly add the milk a little at a time, whisking continuously to prevent any lumps, until incorporated and the sauce is smooth. Cook, whisking often, for about 7 minutes, until thickened slightly. Off the heat, stir in the garlic, mustard, cheese and ¼ teaspoon of salt until the cheese has melted.

4. Keep the phyllo sheets under a damp kitchen towel to prevent them from drying out. In a bowl, combine the melted butter and the remaining 1½ tablespoons of oil and set aside.

5. Working with one sheet at a time, brush the exposed side of the filo with the butter mixture and drape it into your prepared pan (buttered side up), pushing it down gently to fit. Continue in this way with the next phyllo sheet, brushing it with butter and then laying it over the bottom sheet, rotating it slightly so the overhang drapes over the sides at a different angle. Do this with all six sheets.

6. Spoon half the bechamel into the base and top with the roasted cauliflower florets. Spoon in the remaining bechamel, then crimp up the overhang so that it creates a messy scrunched-up border around the edges, leaving the center of the pie exposed.

7. Brush the top of the filo border with the remaining butter mixture, then transfer the pan to a baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes.

8. Using a kitchen tool, to help you, carefully release the outer circle of the springform pan and return the pie to the oven for another 20-25 minutes, or until the sides are nicely colored and everything is golden and bubbling. Let settle for 15 minutes.

9. Top the pie with the parsley and lemon zest and serve warm.

Apple Cider Doughnut Blondies

Source: Jesse Szewczyk for The Kitchn, Oct. 27, 2021

2 sticks unsalted butter

3 cups apple cider or unfiltered apple juice

Cooking spray

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, divided

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

2 cups packed light brown sugar

2 large eggs

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1. Cut 2 sticks unsalted butter into 1/2-inch cubes. Melt in a small, tall-sided saucepan over medium-high heat. Continue cooking, stirring constantly while scraping the bottom of the pot with a rubber spatula to release any browned bits, until the butter is light brown, smells nutty and is no longer foamy, about 6 to 12 minutes. Immediately scrape into a large heatproof bowl.

2. Add 3 cups apple cider or unfiltered apple juice to the now-empty pan. (Be careful; the apple cider will sizzle when added to the hot saucepan.) Cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until the cider has reduced to 1/2 cup, 30 to 40 minutes. (The easiest way to see if your cider has reduced enough is to carefully pour it into a liquid measuring cup and check if it’s at the 1/2-cup mark. If you accidentally over-reduced it, just add enough water to bring it up to 1/2 cup.) Immediately pour the reduced apple cider into the bowl of melted butter and let cool at room temperature for 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, arrange a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Coat a 9x13-inch baking pan with cooking spray and line with parchment paper, leaving a 2-inch overhang on two opposite sides like a sling. Place 2 tablespoons of the granulated sugar and 1 teaspoon of the ground cinnamon in a small bowl and stir to combine.

4. Place 3 cups all-purpose flour, the remaining 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, 3/4 teaspoon baking soda, 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg, and 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice in a medium bowl and whisk to combine.

5. When the butter and cider are ready, add 2 cups packed light brown sugar and the remaining 1/4 cup granulated sugar to it. Whisk until smooth and the sugar is mostly dissolved. Add 2 large eggs and 1 tablespoon vanilla extract and whisk until no streaks of egg remain. Add the flour mixture and stir with a rubber spatula until no pockets of dry flour remain and a smooth batter forms.

6. Transfer the batter into the prepared baking pan and smooth into an even layer with an offset spatula or the back of a spoon. Sprinkle evenly with the cinnamon-sugar mixture and press it in slightly so it sticks.

7. Bake until the top is browned and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out with only a few moist crumbs attached, 35 to 41 minutes. Let cool for at least 1 hour in the pan before slicing.

Storage: Leftover blondies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to five days.